Each Cook Should Train Here’: Modest Turkish Eatery Ranks Fourth on Ranking of London’s Leading Restaurants.

When curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. However, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” states the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.

Sarah Shaw
Sarah Shaw

Tech entrepreneur and startup advisor with a passion for mentoring new founders and sharing practical business strategies.